Hyaluronic acid: uses, benefits and myths

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that the body itself produces and that has a remarkable ability to retain water in the skin. This is why it is used both in cosmetics and in aesthetic medicine, where it serves to hydrate, fill wrinkles, and add volume in a controlled way. In this article we explain what it really is, how its main treatments differ from one another, how long the results last, and which myths are worth setting aside before your consultation.

What hyaluronic acid is and how it works in the skin

Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin. It forms part of the matrix that surrounds the cells and acts like a sponge: it captures and retains water, which helps the skin look firm, supple, and hydrated. A large proportion of the body's hyaluronic acid is concentrated in the skin itself, according to the scientific literature available in databases such as PubMed.

With age, the quantity and quality of hyaluronic acid in the skin decrease. The skin loses its ability to retain water, fine lines appear, and less volume is noticeable in areas such as the cheekbones or lips. The skin's hyaluronic acid is also renewed quickly and naturally, which means its presence is dynamic rather than permanent.

In aesthetic medicine, laboratory-produced hyaluronic acid is used, modified to last longer once injected. According to the FDA's information on approved dermal fillers, these products are approved following controlled clinical studies that evaluate their safe and effective use in specific areas of the face. This marks an important distinction from creams: a cream containing hyaluronic acid works on the surface, whereas an injectable treatment acts within the skin.

Differences between fillers, deep hydration, and skinboosters

Although they all use hyaluronic acid, they are not the same thing. The key lies in the density of the product and the objective of the treatment.

• Facial fillers. These are denser hyaluronic acid gels with a greater capacity to provide structure. They are used to add volume or correct grooves: lips, cheekbones, the nasolabial fold, or under-eye hollows. Their function is to support and define.
• Deep hydration. Here the goal is to restore water and improve skin texture, without seeking volume. A lighter hyaluronic acid is infiltrated to hydrate from within.
• Skinbooster. This is a specific form of deep hydration. It uses a very fluid hyaluronic acid, distributed through microinjections, to improve radiance, elasticity, and overall skin quality without changing the proportions of the face.

When someone searches for "facial fillers" they usually think only of volume, but in the consultation room the decision starts with a diagnosis: sometimes what the skin needs is hydration and quality, not filling. At Clínica Valorian, with an evidence-based medicine approach, the treatment is chosen according to what each person's skin shows — not the other way around.

Most treated areas and average duration of results

The most common areas for hyaluronic acid fillers are the lips, cheekbones, chin, nasolabial folds and under-eye hollows. For deep hydration and skin boosters, in addition to the face, the neck, décolletage and back of the hands are frequently treated — areas where the skin tends to show the first signs of ageing.

How long results last depends on the product, the area and each person's metabolism. According to the FDA, the effects of hyaluronic acid fillers last approximately 6 to 12 months. As an illustration that not all materials behave the same way, the same source notes that calcium hydroxyapatite fillers last around 18 months, and that the only approved permanent filler is a non-absorbable polymer. Hyaluronic acid, by contrast, is resorbable: the body breaks it down gradually, which means maintenance sessions are required but also allows room for correction.

Common myths about naturalness and safety

A number of ideas circulate about hyaluronic acid that are worth clarifying.

"Hyaluronic acid leaves the face looking artificial." The product does not determine the outcome. An exaggerated appearance comes from using too much or from poor technique. With a conservative plan, follow-up appointments and the right amount, the goal is a proportionate result that respects each person's own features.

"It retains a thousand times its weight in water." This is one of the most repeated figures and it lacks solid experimental backing. Hyaluronic acid is highly hydrophilic and captures water effectively, but the "thousand times" phrase is marketing, not a measured fact. When choosing a treatment, what matters more is how it behaves in the skin than an eye-catching number.

"It lasts forever." Hyaluronic acid is not permanent. It is reabsorbed over time, which is generally seen as a safety advantage: if the result is not satisfactory, a doctor can dissolve it with a specific enzyme. That reversibility is one of the reasons it is so widely used.

"All products are the same." They are not. Density, manufacturing quality and regulatory approval vary considerably. A cheap product with no guarantees is not comparable to one approved for medical use.

How to ensure a safe treatment with medical supervision

The safety of hyaluronic acid depends above all on the clinical process, beyond the properties of the molecule itself. Before undergoing treatment, it is worth making sure of several points:

• Prior medical assessment. A professional should evaluate your skin, your medical history and your expectations before recommending anything.
• Approved product. Ask which brand is used and whether it is authorised for medical use. Approved fillers go through clinical studies before being cleared.
• Qualified professional. Technique matters just as much as the product, and the doctor must know how to manage potential complications, including dissolving the material if necessary.
• Follow-up appointments. A good treatment includes monitoring to fine-tune the results over time.

If you live on the Costa del Sol and are considering a treatment, also read our guide on how to choose an aesthetic clinic in Marbella, which details what to ask and what to look for before making a decision. The most sensible step is not to search for the lowest price, but to book an initial medical consultation where they explain what your skin needs, which product is right for you and why — from there, the decision is yours and it is an informed one.