The doctor explains

How to properly care for your skin: a complete medical guide based on your skin type

Written and reviewed by Doctor Florian A. Vallecillo Cabrera· Published: 13 October 2026· Last medical review: 13 October 2026
Unbranded facial skincare products: dropper serum, moisturising cream and sunscreen on a black background.
Cleansing, moisturising and sun protection: the foundation of almost any facial routine.Ilustración · Clínica Valorian

Why I'm telling you this

Every day, new creams, serums, cleansers, exfoliants, and treatments appear, all promising to transform our skin. Retinol, retinal, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, peptides, ceramides, salicylic acid, glycolic acid… The list seems endless. And with so many options, a very simple question arises: what does my skin actually need?

The answer does not depend on which cream is the most expensive, which brand is the most well-known, or which product is trending on social media. It depends on our skin type, its current condition, the concerns we want to address, and its ability to tolerate certain ingredients.

A person with oily skin and blackheads does not necessarily need the same products as someone with rosacea, dark spots, intense dryness, or signs of aging. Even two people with the same skin type may need different routines.

In this guide we will explain how to identify each skin's needs, which products to use in the morning and at night, which ingredients have real utility, and which ones may be unnecessary or counterproductive.

The goal is not to use more cosmetics. It is to use the right ones, at the right time, and for a specific reason.

1. Before buying a cream: what is your skin type?

The first step in designing a facial routine is to distinguish between skin type and skin condition.

Skin type is mainly related to characteristics such as sebum production and the tendency toward dryness. Skin condition can change with the seasons, treatments, hormones, age, or certain medical conditions.

For example, a person can have oily skin and, at the same time, experience dehydration. They may also have dry skin with acne, or combination skin with rosacea.

Therefore, we should not assume that a single label completely describes our skin.

Normal or balanced skin

It is characterized by a relatively balanced sebum production, with no habitual sensation of tightness or significant excess shine.

It generally tolerates a simple routine well.

What it needs: gentle cleansing, tailored hydration, and photoprotection.

It is not necessary to introduce acids, retinoids, or numerous serums unless there is a specific goal.

Dry skin

It produces fewer surface lipids or has a skin barrier that does not adequately retain water.

It can manifest as tightness, flaking, roughness, and small cracks.

What it needs: gentle cleansers, creams with moisturizing ingredients and repairing lipids, and avoiding excessively degreasing products.

Oily skin

It is characterized by higher sebum production, frequent shine, and, at times, more visible pores.

It may be accompanied by comedones or acne, although having oily skin does not necessarily mean having acne.

What it needs: gentle cleansing, lightweight moisturizers and, if lesions are present, appropriate active ingredients to address follicular obstruction or inflammation.

Combination skin

It presents areas with different characteristics.

Greater sebum production is commonly observed on the forehead, nose and chin, while the cheeks are normal or dry.

What it needs: a balanced routine, which may include different textures depending on the area.

Sensitive or reactive skin

It may present stinging, burning, redness or intolerance to certain cosmetics.

Sensitivity does not in itself constitute a diagnosis. It may be related to irritation, contact dermatitis, rosacea, skin barrier alterations or other conditions.

What it needs: simple, fragrance-free formulas with few potentially irritating ingredients and a gradual introduction of any active treatment.

Dehydrated skin

Dehydration describes a relative lack of water in the superficial layers of the skin, not necessarily a lack of oil.

Oily skin can also be dehydrated.

It may present tightness, a dull appearance or discomfort after cleansing.

What it needs: reducing aggressive cleansing, providing humectant substances and using a cream that helps limit water loss.

2. How can I tell what my skin really needs?

We can start by observing how our skin behaves throughout the day.

If intense shine appears just a few hours after cleansing, there may be elevated sebum production.

If after washing our face we feel persistent tightness, we should consider dryness, irritation, or an overly aggressive cleansing routine.

If blackheads and small skin-colored bumps appear, comedonal acne may be present.

If redness, a sensation of heat, and stinging predominate, we should consider reactive skin or conditions such as rosacea.

If brown spots appear, it is important to identify whether they correspond to solar lentigines, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or other lesions.

Not all spots are the same, and not all of them should be treated with a depigmenting cream.

A new, changing, or suspicious pigmented lesion requires medical evaluation before any cosmetic treatment.

3. The basic routine that almost every skin type needs

Before talking about retinol, vitamin C, or exfoliants, we must understand that a good routine rests on three pillars:

• Adequate cleansing.

• Hydration and maintenance of the skin barrier.

• Protection against ultraviolet radiation.

These steps are the foundation.

All other products should be added only when there is a specific indication.

A simple, well-tolerated routine can deliver better results than a complex routine that causes chronic irritation.

4. How should we cleanse our skin in the morning?

During the night, sebum, sweat, and product residue accumulate on the skin.

However, this does not mean that everyone needs to use an intense cleanser upon waking.

For normal or oily skin: a gentle facial cleanser may be used, preferably one free of harsh soap.

For dry or very sensitive skin: in some cases, rinsing with lukewarm water is sufficient, or a gentle cleansing milk may be used if needed.

For acne-prone skin: it is advisable to use a non-comedogenic cleanser, avoiding friction and excessively degreasing products.

For skin with rosacea: we should prioritize fragrance-free, well-tolerated cleansers.

Cleansing should be done with the hands, without abrasive brushes, rough sponges, or mechanical exfoliants.

The water should be lukewarm, not too hot.

Afterwards, we should dry gently, without rubbing.

Skin that feels extremely tight after washing is not necessarily cleaner: it may be irritated.

5. How should we cleanse our skin at night?

Evening cleansing is particularly important because it removes sunscreen, makeup, excess sebum, and residue that has built up throughout the day.

For most people, a gentle cleanser used correctly is sufficient.

When waterproof makeup or hard-to-remove sun protection is involved, a double cleanse can be helpful:

First step: micellar water, cleansing balm, or a suitable cleansing oil to remove makeup and resistant products.

Second step: gentle facial cleanser to remove residue.

Double cleansing is not mandatory for everyone.

If it causes tightness, flaking, or irritation, we should simplify it.

It is also not necessary to use micellar water and leave it permanently on the skin if its components cause discomfort; it can be rinsed off when convenient.

6. What moisturizer should I use?

A moisturizer does not serve only to provide water.

Formulations may contain three main groups of ingredients:

Humectants

They attract or help retain water in the superficial layers of the skin.

Among them we find:

• Glycerin.

• Hyaluronic acid.

• Panthenol.

• Urea in appropriate concentrations.

Emollients

They improve skin softness and flexibility.

Some examples are squalane and certain cosmetic lipids.

Occlusives

They form a film that helps reduce water loss.

Among them we find petrolatum and dimethicone.

The best formulations combine several mechanisms.

Which cream to choose according to skin type?

Skin typeGenerally preferred textureUseful ingredients
NormalLotion or light creamGlycerin, ceramides
DryRicher, more nourishing creamCeramides, glycerin, petrolatum, squalane
OilyGel-cream or light lotionGlycerin, niacinamide, ceramides
CombinationLight lotion, adjusting by areaHumectants and emollients
SensitiveSimple fragrance-free creamCeramides, glycerin, panthenol
Acne-proneNon-comedogenic moisturizerGlycerin, ceramides, niacinamide

These recommendations are general guidelines. Tolerance depends on the complete formulation, not solely on a single ingredient.

7. Why are ceramides important?

Ceramides are lipids that form part of the structure of the skin barrier.

They help maintain the cohesion of the stratum corneum and limit transepidermal water loss.

They can be particularly useful for dry or irritated skin, or skin undergoing treatments that alter cutaneous tolerance.

They are not an ingredient exclusive to mature skin.

A young person using acne treatments can also benefit from a moisturizer containing ceramides.

8. What is hyaluronic acid used for?

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule capable of retaining water.

In cosmetics it is used primarily as a humectant.

It can temporarily improve surface hydration and the appearance of fine lines related to dehydration.

But we must clearly distinguish between:

• Hyaluronic acid applied in a cream: essentially a hydrating and superficial effect.

• Injectable hyaluronic acid: a medical procedure with different characteristics, indications, and risks.

A hyaluronic acid cream does not replicate the effect of an injectable filler.

On very dry skin, it may be advisable to pair it with a cream containing emollient or occlusive components.

9. Sun protection: the most important anti-aging product

If we had to select one daily measure with demonstrated benefits for preventing photoaging, it would be photoprotection.

Ultraviolet radiation contributes to the development of wrinkles, pigmentation changes, DNA damage, and skin cancer.

That is why sun protection should not be considered solely a beach product.

Which sunscreen should you choose?

As a general reference, we should look for:

• Broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB.

• SPF 30 as a minimum.

• SPF 50 or 50+ when high protection is desired, especially for fair skin, skin with pigmentation spots, or significant sun exposure.

• A texture that we can apply in sufficient quantity.

• Water resistance when sweating or aquatic activity is involved.

In Spain, the UVA labelling on sunscreens makes it possible to identify products that meet certain UVA protection criteria.

Mineral or chemical sunscreen?

Mineral filters, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, may be suitable for sensitive skin.

Organic filters, also commonly referred to as chemical filters, offer a wide range of formulation possibilities and can provide very lightweight textures.

Both types can offer effective photoprotection if the product is correctly formulated and used properly.

There is no medical obligation to use exclusively mineral filters.

The best option is an effective sunscreen that the person tolerates and applies correctly.

When should sunscreen be reapplied?

During prolonged outdoor exposure, it is recommended to reapply it approximately every two hours and after swimming, sweating heavily, or towel-drying.

The specific frequency depends on the level of exposure and the circumstances.

What if I have melasma or pigmentation spots?

In certain cases of hyperpigmentation, particularly melasma, a tinted sunscreen containing iron oxides may be beneficial.

These pigments help reduce exposure to part of the visible light spectrum, which may contribute to pigmentation in predisposed individuals.

No depigmenting serum can compensate for inadequate photoprotection.

10. What is niacinamide and what is it used for?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 used in numerous cosmetic formulations.

It can help improve barrier function, reduce water loss, and modulate certain inflammatory processes.

There are also studies showing benefits on the appearance of sebum and certain pigmentary alterations.

Who might find it useful?

It may be of interest for combination, oily, sensitive, or mildly pigmentation-affected skin.

Typical cosmetic concentrations, such as 2–5%, are usually sufficient for many purposes.

We should not assume that a concentration of 10% is necessarily better.

In some people, concentrated formulas can cause stinging or irritation.

11. What is vitamin C and when should it be used?

Vitamin C plays a role in antioxidant processes and collagen synthesis.

In cosmetics, it is used to improve certain signs of photoaging and uneven skin tone.

The most extensively studied form is L-ascorbic acid, although various derivatives exist.

Why do some vitamin C serums cause irritation?

Because certain L-ascorbic acid formulations require an acidic pH to support their stability and penetration.

This can cause stinging in sensitive skin.

Furthermore, the stability of vitamin C depends on the formulation and the packaging.

When should it be applied?

It can be used in the morning, before your moisturizer and sunscreen.

However, it can also be used at other times depending on the formulation.

Vitamin C is a complement; it does not replace sunscreen.

12. Retinol, retinal, adapalene and tretinoin: are they the same thing?

No.

This is one of the points that generates the most confusion.

They all belong to the field of retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A, but they present important differences in their activity, formulation, clinical evidence and tolerability.

Retinoids can influence cell differentiation, keratinization and certain processes related to collagen.

They are used in different contexts, particularly acne and photoageing.

Retinol

It is a cosmetic ingredient that requires metabolic transformations in order to convert into active retinoic acid.

It is used primarily to improve texture, certain fine lines and some signs of photoageing.

Its results tend to be gradual.

Retinal or retinaldehyde

It is another vitamin A derivative that requires one less conversion step than retinol to reach retinoic acid.

It may be an interesting cosmetic option, although we cannot claim that any product containing retinal is necessarily more effective than any product containing retinol.

Concentration, stability, the vehicle, and tolerance are all fundamental.

Adapalene

It is a topical retinoid with solid clinical evidence in the treatment of acne.

It is particularly useful for comedonal lesions and for preventing the formation of new comedones.

It should not simply be considered a more potent version of an anti-aging cream.

Its primary indication and the evidence supporting it focus on the treatment of acne.

Tretinoin

It is retinoic acid and acts directly on retinoid receptors.

It has significant evidence in the treatment of acne and photoaging.

It can cause irritation, peeling, and dryness, especially at the start of treatment.

Its use must be adjusted to medical indications and applicable regulations.

Tazarotene

It is another retinoid for medical use, with specific indications and a tolerability profile that requires special attention.

It is not a universal choice for everyone who wishes to improve wrinkles.

Practical comparison

IngredientMain useConsideration
RetinolMild photoaging, textureCosmetic; gradual effect
RetinalPhotoaging, textureDepends on formulation and tolerance
AdapaleneAcne, comedonesRetinoid with evidence for acne
TretinoinAcne and photoagingMedical treatment; may cause irritation
TazaroteneSpecific dermatological indicationsRequires careful patient selection

There is no universal scale on which we can rank all these products simply by their percentage.

A 1% retinol is not equivalent to a 0.1% tretinoin, nor can their concentrations be compared directly.

13. How do you start using retinol without irritating your skin?

Tolerance is just as important as the ingredient itself.

For someone beginning with a cosmetic retinoid, it may be reasonable to:

• Start with a low-strength formulation.

• Apply it at night.

• Use it initially two nights per week.

• Gradually increase the frequency if the skin tolerates it.

• Apply a small, even amount.

• Complement it with a suitable moisturiser.

• Maintain rigorous sun protection.

On sensitive skin, a moisturising strategy applied both before and after the retinoid may be used, provided it is compatible with the product and any guidance received.

It is not necessary to endure intense irritation in order to see results.

What happens if flaking appears?

Mild flaking can occur during the adaptation period.

However, intense burning, fissures, eczema, or persistent redness indicate that we should reduce or temporarily discontinue the product and reassess the routine.

Irritation is not proof of efficacy.

Can retinol be used during pregnancy?

Retinoids are not recommended for use during pregnancy.

This includes retinol, retinal, and pharmacological topical retinoids.

If there is a pregnancy, a desire to conceive, or a possibility of becoming pregnant, the treatment should be reviewed with a healthcare professional.

14. What is salicylic acid and what is it used for?

Salicylic acid belongs to the group of beta-hydroxy acids (BHA).

It is lipophilic and is used in formulations designed for oily skin or skin prone to comedones.

It can help reduce the accumulation of cells in the follicle and improve the appearance of blackheads and clogged pores.

Who is it useful for?

Mainly for people with:

• Blackheads.

• Closed comedones.

• Oily skin.

• Mild comedonal acne.

When is it not the best choice?

On very dry skin, with active rosacea, eczema, or a compromised skin barrier, it can cause irritation.

It is also not necessary to use it every day if the skin does not tolerate it.

15. What are glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids?

They are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) used to promote superficial exfoliation.

They can improve texture and certain pigmentary irregularities.

• Glycolic acid: used for texture, photoaging, and some pigmentary irregularities. It can be irritating.

• Lactic acid: has exfoliating and moisturizing properties depending on the formulation.

• Mandelic acid: can be used on certain skin types prone to pigmentation or acne, although the evidence depends on the indication and the product.

We should not use several exfoliants simultaneously without a specific reason.

Excessive exfoliation can cause inflammation and worsen post-inflammatory pigmentation.

16. What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is particularly interesting because it can be useful in several situations:

• Acne.

• Papulopustular rosacea.

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

• Certain tone irregularities.

It has anti-inflammatory properties and effects on processes related to keratinization and pigmentation.

The formulations and concentrations used depend on the indication.

It may cause initial stinging or irritation, especially in highly reactive skin types.

We should not assume that it is tolerated by everyone simply because it is generally considered a versatile ingredient.

17. I have oily skin: what routine should I follow?

Oily skin needs balance, not aggression.

Completely eliminating sebum is neither a realistic nor a healthy goal.

In the morning

• Gentle gel cleanser.

• Niacinamide, if there is an indication and good tolerance.

• Lightweight non-comedogenic moisturizer.

• Sunscreen SPF 30–50+, preferably with a fluid texture.

At night

• Cleansing to remove sun protection and residue.

• If blackheads are present, salicylic acid at a tolerated frequency or an appropriate retinoid treatment.

• Lightweight moisturizer.

It is not necessary to combine salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and retinol on the same night.

Having oily skin does not mean you need daily exfoliation.

18. I have dry skin: what routine should I follow?

In dry skin, the priority is to reduce water loss and maintain a functional skin barrier.

In the morning

• Very gentle cleansing or rinsing with water, according to tolerance.

• Optional hydrating serum with glycerin or hyaluronic acid.

• Cream with ceramides and emollients.

• Sunscreen with a comfortable texture.

At night

• Gentle cleansing milk or cream.

• Active treatment only if there is a specific indication.

• Repairing cream.

• In particularly dry areas, an occlusive product can be helpful.

If there is significant flaking, cracking, or persistent itching, we should rule out dermatitis or other conditions.

19. I have combination skin: should I use two different creams?

Not necessarily.

A balanced lotion can be sufficient for the entire face.

However, if the T-zone is very oily and the cheeks are dry, a lightweight texture can be used in the center of the face and a more nourishing cream in the dry areas.

Treatment with salicylic acid can also be limited to the areas with comedones.

It is not necessary to apply every product all over the face.

20. I have sensitive skin: what products should I avoid?

Sensitive skin requires particular caution.

It is advisable to reduce:

• Fragrances and essential oils when they cause irritation.

• Harsh exfoliants.

• Abrasive brushes and sponges.

• Products with a high concentration of denatured alcohol if they cause stinging.

• Introducing numerous active ingredients simultaneously.

• Repeated washing with very hot water.

Recommended routine

Morning: gentle cleansing, fragrance-free moisturizer, and a well-tolerated sunscreen.

Evening: gentle cleansing and a repairing cream.

Once the skin is stable, a gradual introduction of an active ingredient may be considered if there is a specific need.

If almost all products cause a burning sensation, we should consider rosacea, contact dermatitis, or other causes.

21. I have blackheads: what should I use?

Blackheads are open comedones.

They are caused by the accumulation of sebum and keratinous material in the follicle.

Their dark color is related to the oxidation of components within the follicular contents; it does not simply mean that the pore is filled with dirt.

Useful ingredients

• Salicylic acid: can help improve follicular obstruction.

• Topical retinoids: particularly useful for treating and preventing the formation of comedones.

• Non-comedogenic moisturizers: help maintain tolerance.

What should we avoid?

Repeatedly squeezing blackheads, using aggressive mechanical exfoliants, or applying irritating products.

We must also differentiate comedones from sebaceous filaments, normal structures that can be observed especially on the nose.

Sebaceous filaments do not need to be completely eliminated.

22. I have small bumps under the skin: what could they be?

They may correspond to closed comedones, but other possibilities also exist.

Among them:

• Milia.

• Folliculitis.

• Early inflammatory lesions.

• Periorificial dermatitis.

• Other follicular disorders.

Not every small facial bump is acne.

If the lesions persist or worsen with cosmetic treatments, it is important to confirm the diagnosis.

23. I have acne: what routine should I use?

Acne is an inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit.

It is not simply caused by a lack of hygiene.

Several mechanisms are involved, including:

• Sebum production.

• Alterations in follicular keratinization.

• Involvement of Cutibacterium acnes.

• Inflammatory response.

• Hormonal and genetic factors.

Comedonal acne

When blackheads and closed comedones predominate, topical retinoids tend to play an important role in treatment.

Salicylic acid may be useful in selected cases.

Mild inflammatory acne

When papules and pustules are present, benzoyl peroxide and certain retinoids have clinical evidence supporting their use.

Therapeutic combinations may be used depending on the case.

Moderate or severe acne

When there are numerous inflammatory lesions, nodules, scarring, or significant psychological impact, a cosmetic routine is not sufficient.

Specific medical treatment may be necessary, including topical and systemic options.

Should I use topical antibiotics on my own?

No.

Topical antibiotics should not be used indiscriminately or maintained for prolonged periods as the sole treatment for acne.

Bacterial resistance is a real concern.

When indicated, they are usually part of specific therapeutic strategies, frequently combined with benzoyl peroxide.

Basic routine for acne-prone skin

Morning: gentle cleanser, indicated treatment when appropriate, non-comedogenic moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Evening: cleansing, prescribed or severity-appropriate anti-acne treatment, and a suitable moisturizer.

Important: moisturizer should not be automatically removed from an anti-acne routine. Many treatments cause dryness and irritation.

24. I have rosacea: what care does my skin need?

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory condition that can manifest as redness, a sensation of heat, visible blood vessels, and inflammatory lesions.

In some patients, ocular involvement is also present.

Rosacea should not be treated as though it were simply acne.

Morning routine

• Very gentle cleanser.

• Fragrance-free moisturizer.

• Broad-spectrum sunscreen, preferably SPF 50+ if well tolerated.

Evening routine

• Gentle cleansing.

• Medical treatment when indicated.

• Repairing moisturizer.

What ingredients can be helpful?

Azelaic acid can be useful in certain types of rosacea.

Other treatments, such as topical metronidazole or ivermectin, have specific medical indications.

What should we avoid?

In susceptible individuals, strong exfoliants, certain fragrances, and irritating formulations can trigger symptoms.

Not all people with rosacea react to the same ingredients.

If active rosacea is present, the priority is not to start a potent retinol, but to control the inflammation and restore skin tolerance.

25. I have redness, but no pimples: is it rosacea?

Not necessarily.

Redness can appear due to:

• Rosacea.

• Irritant dermatitis.

• Allergic contact dermatitis.

• Seborrheic dermatitis.

• Sun exposure.

• Other inflammatory conditions.

That is why it is not advisable to apply acids or depigmenting creams indiscriminately to any red area.

The diagnosis determines the treatment.

26. I have brown spots: what cream should I use?

Before treating a spot, we need to know what type of lesion it is.

Spots can correspond to very different processes.

Melasma

It usually produces brown pigmentation in certain facial areas and is related to factors such as solar radiation, individual predisposition, and hormonal changes.

Photoprotection is essential.

Treatments such as azelaic acid and other depigmenting agents may be used, depending on the situation.

Hydroquinone and certain pharmacological combinations require medical supervision.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

It appears after inflammatory processes such as acne, dermatitis, or skin lesions.

It is especially important to avoid additional irritation.

Photoprotection, azelaic acid, and other selected active ingredients may be helpful.

Solar lentigines

These are pigmented lesions associated with cumulative sun exposure.

They should not be automatically confused with melasma.

Their management may include topical treatments or medical procedures when the diagnosis is certain.

What about vitamin C and niacinamide?

They can provide benefits for certain uneven skin tone concerns, but not all pigmentation problems respond in the same way.

The first question is not which depigmenting product to buy, but rather what type of dark spot we have.

27. What is the best anti-ageing routine?

Skin ageing depends on internal and external factors.

Among external factors, ultraviolet radiation plays a particularly important role.

A sensible anti-ageing routine should prioritise measures with proven benefits.

In the morning

• Gentle cleansing.

• An antioxidant, such as vitamin C, if well tolerated and of interest to use.

• A suitable moisturiser.

• Broad-spectrum sunscreen.

At night

• Cleansing.

• A retinoid suited to your age, goals, tolerance, and indication.

• Repairing moisturizer.

There is no specific age at which everyone must start using a retinoid.

Nor do all people need vitamin C, peptides, and exfoliants all at the same time.

What results can we expect?

A proper routine can improve:

• Hydration.

• Texture.

• The appearance of fine lines.

• Mild tone irregularities.

• Some signs of photoaging.

But creams have their limits.

They do not completely eliminate deep wrinkles, significant sagging, or structural changes caused by aging.

28. At what age should I start using retinol?

There is no universal age.

In teenagers and young adults, retinoids may be indicated to treat acne.

In adults, certain retinoids can be used to improve signs of photoaging.

The decision depends on clinical need and tolerance.

A 25-year-old without acne or significant signs of photoaging does not necessarily need retinol.

And a 60-year-old with very reactive skin may require a gentler approach than a 45-year-old who tolerates it well.

29. Do cosmetic peptides really work?

Peptides are protein fragments used in various formulations.

Some are being researched for their potential effects on hydration, cellular signaling, and skin appearance.

However, clinical evidence depends on the specific peptide and formulation.

We should not automatically equate the results of a peptide serum with those of a medical treatment.

Generally speaking, the evidence for photoprotection and certain retinoids is more robust than what is available for many commercial claims about peptides.

30. What about collagen in cream?

Collagen is a fundamental structural protein of the dermis.

But applying collagen to the skin does not mean that this collagen is directly incorporated into the dermal fibers.

Formulations containing collagen may have moisturizing or film-forming effects.

However, we must distinguish these effects from demonstrated regeneration of deep collagen.

A cream that contains collagen is not the same as rebuilding the architecture of the dermis.

31. What skincare routine should I follow if I am over 50 or 60 years old?

With aging, certain lipid components of the skin may diminish and greater dryness may appear.

Skin fragility and sensitivity may also increase.

For many mature individuals, it is advisable to prioritize:

• Gentle cleansers.

• Creams with ceramides and emollients.

• Sun protection.

• Retinoids only when there is a clear indication and good tolerance.

• Avoiding excessive exfoliation.

Age does not require the use of more expensive creams.

A simple, well-chosen formulation used regularly can prove more effective than a complex routine.

32. What skincare routine should I follow during menopause?

The hormonal changes associated with menopause can influence the skin's hydration, thickness, and properties.

Some women notice increased dryness, sensitivity, or changes in texture.

The routine may need adjustments, especially increasing attention to the skin barrier.

Photoprotection remains essential.

Retinoids may be used in selected cases, but they are not mandatory.

If significant changes appear, we should also rule out skin conditions that may require specific treatment.

33. What products can I use during pregnancy?

During pregnancy it is advisable to simplify the routine and carefully review active ingredients.

Generally, the following are prioritized:

• Gentle cleansing.

• Moisturization.

• Photoprotection.

• Specific treatments selected under medical supervision.

Retinoids should be avoided during pregnancy.

For issues such as acne or pigmentation, alternatives may exist, but their selection must be individualized.

It should not be assumed that a product is safe simply because it is marketed as natural.

34. What should I do if my skin barrier is damaged?

The skin barrier can be disrupted by dermatitis, aggressive cleansing, excessive exfoliation, or poor tolerance to certain treatments.

Symptoms may include:

• Tightness.

• Stinging.

• Flaking.

• Redness.

• Sensitivity to previously tolerated products.

What should we do?

During a recovery period, it is advisable to simplify your routine.

Morning: minimal and gentle cleansing, a repairing moisturizer, and a tolerated sunscreen.

Night: gentle cleansing and a repairing moisturizer.

It is reasonable to temporarily discontinue exfoliants and irritating active ingredients if they are causing the problem, unless there is a specific medical indication.

If the disruption persists, it is important to rule out allergic contact dermatitis, rosacea, or other conditions.

35. Is it necessary to exfoliate the skin every week?

No.

The skin has natural renewal and shedding mechanisms.

Exfoliation can be useful in certain circumstances, but it is not a universal requirement.

A person with balanced skin and no specific concerns may not need exfoliants.

On the other hand, certain patients with comedones or textural irregularities may benefit from well-chosen keratolytic actives.

Exfoliating more does not mean having healthier skin.

36. Can vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide, and acids be combined?

In some cases yes, but that does not mean it is advisable to introduce all of them at the same time.

Absolute incompatibilities between ingredients are frequently exaggerated on social media.

The main issue is usually skin tolerance and the specific formulation.

For example, combining a retinoid with a potent exfoliant can increase irritation.

Niacinamide is generally compatible with a wide range of ingredients.

Vitamin C can be used in routines that also include retinoids, although distributing products between morning and evening may help improve tolerance.

Practical rule

Introduce one new product at a time and observe how your skin responds.

If any discomfort appears, it will be much easier to identify the culprit.

37. In what order should I apply my products?

The order depends on the formulation and on the manufacturer's instructions or the medical treatment prescribed.

As a general guideline:

In the morning

1. Cleanser.

2. Serum or lightweight treatment, if used.

3. Moisturizer.

4. Sunscreen.

In the evening

1. Makeup remover, if needed.

2. Cleanser.

3. Active treatment.

4. Moisturizer.

Some topical medications require application on completely dry skin or specific instructions to be followed.

The order may be modified to improve tolerance.

There is no universal rule requiring the use of five or six layers of products.

38. How much product should I apply?

The amount depends on the product.

In cleansing, it is sufficient to use an amount that gently covers the surface.

The moisturizer should be applied in a layer that provides comfort without needing to use excessive amounts.

With retinoid treatments, the amount indicated for the formulation and the treated surface should be followed; using more product may increase irritation without improving the result.

With photoprotection, the amount is especially important: applying too thin a layer reduces the actual protection compared to what is indicated on the packaging.

39. How long does it take for a facial routine to work?

It depends on the goal.

Hydration can improve the sensation of comfort in a short time.

Acne treatments usually need several weeks to show consistent results.

Retinoids used for photoaging may require several months.

Pigmentary alterations may also require prolonged treatments and consistent photoprotection.

Changing products every four or five days prevents a proper assessment of their efficacy.

Consistency is more important than accumulating cosmetics.

40. Complete routines according to the main concern

The following suggestions are intended as guidance for adults and do not replace medical treatment when a skin condition is present.

A. Normal skin with no specific concerns

Morning: gentle cleansing, moisturizer if needed, and sunscreen.

Night: cleansing and moisturizer.

No additional active ingredient is strictly necessary.

B. Oily skin without acne

Morning: gentle gel cleanser, lightweight moisturizer, and fluid sunscreen.

Night: cleansing and lightweight moisturizer.

Niacinamide optional depending on needs.

C. Oily skin with blackheads

Morning: cleansing, non-comedogenic moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Night: cleansing, salicylic acid at a tolerated frequency or a retinoid indicated for comedones, and moisturizer.

Do not combine irritating treatments unnecessarily.

D. Skin with inflammatory acne

Morning: gentle cleansing, prescribed anti-acne treatment, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Night: cleansing, appropriate medical treatment, and moisturizer.

If nodules, scars, or extensive lesions are present, medical evaluation is required.

E. Dry skin with tightness

Morning: minimal cleansing, ceramide cream, and sun protection.

Night: creamy cleanser and nourishing cream.

Avoid harsh exfoliants.

F. Combination skin

Morning: gentle cleanser, lightweight moisturizer and sunscreen.

Night: cleansing, targeted treatment on the T-zone if there is a specific need, and suitable moisturizer.

G. Sensitive skin

Morning: very gentle cleansing, fragrance-free cream and tolerated sunscreen.

Night: gentle cleansing and repairing cream.

Introduce other active ingredients only after stabilizing the skin.

H. Skin with rosacea

Morning: gentle cleanser, moisturizer and photoprotection.

Night: cleansing, indicated treatment when appropriate and repairing cream.

Avoid intense exfoliation and products that trigger symptoms.

I. Skin with dark spots or melasma

Morning: cleansing, appropriate depigmenting treatment if indicated, moisturizer and sunscreen, preferably with color and iron oxides when relevant.

Night: cleansing, treatment targeted to the diagnosis and moisturizer.

Do not treat suspicious pigmented lesions as simple cosmetic spots.

J. Skin with first wrinkles

Morning: cleansing, optional vitamin C, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Night: cleansing, retinol or retinal if tolerated, and moisturizer.

Start gradually.

K. Mature skin with dryness and photoaging

Morning: gentle cleanser, optional antioxidant, cream with repairing lipids, and sunscreen.

Night: cleansing, retinoid selected according to tolerance, and nourishing cream.

Prioritize consistency and avoid irritation.

L. Skin irritated by excess cosmetics

Morning: minimal cleansing, repairing moisturizer, and sun protection.

Night: gentle cleansing and moisturizer.

Temporarily discontinue non-essential irritating cosmetics and seek medical assessment if there is no improvement.

41. The most common mistakes in facial care

Using too many products

More products mean more chances of irritation, interactions between formulations, and difficulty identifying what works.

Buying a cream based solely on its price

Price does not demonstrate clinical efficacy.

What matters is the formulation, the evidence, and the tolerability.

Continuously changing your routine

Many treatments require weeks or months.

Lack of consistency makes it difficult to assess results.

Using retinol that is too potent from the start

Excessive intensity can cause irritant dermatitis and lead to abandoning the treatment.

Exfoliating skin that is already irritated

Exfoliation does not automatically repair a compromised skin barrier.

Thinking that oily skin does not need moisturization

Oily skin types can also experience dryness or irritation, especially during acne treatments.

Treating all dark spots the same way

The diagnosis of the pigmented lesion is essential.

Forgetting sunscreen

Sun protection is one of the most important measures for preventing cumulative sun damage.

Using topical antibiotics without a prescription

It can lead to inappropriate treatments and bacterial resistance problems.

Thinking that a burning sensation means a product is working

Persistent stinging and intense irritation are signs of poor tolerance, not proof of efficacy.

42. When is it necessary to consult a doctor?

A cosmetic routine can help keep the skin in good condition, but it does not replace the diagnosis of skin diseases.

It is advisable to seek an evaluation when the following are present:

• Moderate or severe acne.

• Painful nodules or scarring.

• Persistent rosacea.

• Intense redness or recurrent burning.

• Dermatitis that does not improve.

• New or changing spots.

• Lesions that bleed or do not heal.

• Facial pigmentation of unknown cause.

• Significant reactions to cosmetics.

• Skin problems that affect well-being or quality of life.

Appropriate treatment begins with a correct diagnosis.

43. What is really the best routine for skin care?

The best routine is not the one that contains the most active ingredients.

Nor is it the most expensive one, or the one that promises immediate results.

It is the one that responds to the skin's real needs, uses products with a clear purpose, maintains good tolerance, and can be followed consistently.

Healthy skin does not need to be permanently exfoliated, stimulated, or subjected to treatments.

For many people, a thorough cleanse, a suitable moisturiser, and consistent sun protection provide an excellent foundation.

From there, we can add treatments targeting specific concerns: acne, rosacea, dark spots, photoageing, or skin barrier disorders.

The goal of facial care is not to use every cream available, but to understand what our skin needs and which products can genuinely help it.

This article is for informational and educational purposes only. General facial care recommendations do not replace an individualised medical evaluation, particularly when skin conditions, pharmacological treatments, pregnancy, or suspicious lesions are present.

What to remember

  • —Every skin type needs a different routine. The choice of products depends on skin type, its current condition, existing concerns, and individual tolerance.
  • —Cleansing must be effective, yet gentle. Skin that feels irritated or extremely tight after washing is not better cared for.
  • —Hydration is important even for oily or acne-prone skin. Ingredients and textures must be tailored to each individual.
  • —Sun protection is essential. It helps prevent photoaging, pigmentation disorders, and skin damage related to ultraviolet radiation.
  • —Retinol, retinal, adapalene, and tretinoin are not equivalent. Each one has different characteristics, indications, and limitations.
  • —Not all skin concerns can be resolved with cosmetics. Significant acne, rosacea, dermatitis, and suspicious pigmented lesions require proper diagnostic evaluation.
Doctor Florian A. Vallecillo Cabrera

Doctor Florian A. Vallecillo Cabrera

The doctor explains

Informational content, written and reviewed by Doctor Florian A. Vallecillo Cabrera. It does not replace an in-person consultation or an individual diagnosis.

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